BEHIND THE SCENES

BEHIND THE SCENES

LAZY MEXICANS? OR RUDE TOURISTS?

I will never understand how tourists resting on white sand beaches with drinks in hand can refer to Mexicans as "lazy."  It could be that their sunglasses have shaded their view, or that they are so busy relaxing, they fail to notice the men, women and children who work tirelessly all day, in order to create a magical paradise of smoke and mirrors for the affluent.  The lights and the pretty flowers, the street musicians and clean-swept streets are an amazing illusion of what is actually behind the scenes - three blocks from the beach.

 

This young man was the night guard at our hotel in Playa del Carmen.  He began his shift at 11PM, and worked until 7AM.  We saw him working construction during the heat of the day, after having worked a full night shift.  Even-so, he was always friendly, and even recognized us during the day, despite how many people he had to let in and out at night when the hotel doors were locked. 

 

It might not seem like much, but it was hot - and these guys didn't even have the use of a dolly.  I really appreciate their hard work, because there's nothing I love more on a hot afternoon in Mexico, than a cold beer.

 

A hurricane had caused structural damage to a few of the buildings around Playa del Carmen, and these men had this roof repaired in no time flat.  Coming from Canada, it amazed me that none of them had hard-hats, and then I started thinking about the fact that what we were witnessing was only part of the work.  Someone had to gather the materials and weave them into bunches before they could be fitted onto the roof.  

 

I can't even begin to describe how hot it was in Izamal, let alone how brutal the heat must have been where this woman was working.

 

I know if this young man was carrying a load like this at any corporation in Canada, such as Walmart or Home Depot, he'd get a warning or be coached on back-safety.  In Mexico, it's just the norm.

 

Um?  Safety regulations anyone?

I wonder - how many Westerners could fathom traveling like this, 

as part of their job description?

 

 

 Thanks to the many Mexicans who have made our holidays so memorable.

Your hard work-ethic and friendliness are never overlooked nor under-appreciated

by this tourist!

 

 

As a special note:  I want to mention an incident that really enraged me on my last trip in 2007.

I was writing postcards in the lobby of the Kinbe Hotel in Playa del Carmen, and the night guard barely spoke a work of English.  Even-so, for about two hours, we played an awesome "game of charades" to communicate.  I learned that he was from Campeche - and I drew him a shoddy but decent-enough map of North America to show him where I was from in Canada.  I knew that he had 3 children and a wife, he knew that I was single with no children.  He told me he was 28, I told him I was 31.  I even knew that he'd only been in Playa Del Carmen for two weeks - and he understood that I had visited there in 1996, 2006, and that year ( being 2007).  He laughed, and said I had been to Playa more than he had been there.  We were able to communicate all of this information through pictures on paper - because neither or us spoke each others language.

A couple came in from Europe at about 11 PM, and the woman immediately made sharp demands.  When my new friend couldn't respond, she got mad and started calling him down.  She said it was inexcusable that he didn't speak any English.  Her husband was trying to calm her down, but she wasn't having any part of it.  I finally got up to help them.  I don't speak Spanish, but know enough to get a room - and I knew they had reservations, because I'd been listening.

When I tried to assist them, she screamed at me to get away from them, and told me I had no place in their affairs.  Her husband was horrified, apologized to me, calmed his wife - and asked me to please help.  At this point, the night guard was willing, as he and I had already been communicating for quite some time.  He found their reservation, and showed them the room.  Her husband came back to apologize again, and asked me where he could park.  We conversed a bit, and it turned out he'd just come home from a tour in Afghanistan, and was set to drive from Cancun to Palenque and back in just 10 days!  Not only did they not have a road map, they had no dictionary.  I was mortified, because it was obvious that his wife had made all the arrangements, had no Spanish skills, and showed no respect at all for Mexicans.  So, as it was our last night in Mexico, I gave him my road map and dictionary - and he was very grateful.  I felt so bad for him.  He had been on tour, and was now about to spend the majority of ten days in a car...with a woman from hell!  (For those of you who don't know the length of the journey they were taking?  I would NEVER travel that distance in ten days - it's comparable to driving from BC's coast to Alberta and back in 10 days, with the expectation of seeing something.)  She actually thought that Merida was on the beach!  It was obvious that she had not done any research!   (They were set to drive straight past Chichen Itza too.)  Her husband looked at the map I had, looked at the driving distances and said "I think I will be talking my wife out of this trip.  Next year, you say we could fly straight to Villahermosa?"  I said "Yes - Villahermosa is a business city with a busy airport.  You can fly there from Mexico City or Cancun - and see Palenque and area from there."  He said he was going to change their arrangements, because it was obvious that his wife was not ready to deal with "real Mexico."  I think he was right...because in "real Mexico" - very few Mexicans speak English.

 

Most tourists fail to understand the fact that there are a lot of Mayans in Mexico who don't even speak Spanish.  When you don't speak the same language as someone else - there are inventive ways to communicate that don't include yelling or casting insults.  And - in Mexico, if you want someone to help you?  Don't flash your wealth in their face, nor condescend them.  Mexicans are very proud people - because they have a lot to be proud of.  If you treat them like dogs - expect to receive no help.  Mexico is not North America, where some rich-snob can snap their fingers and have someone fired for whatever reason.  Tourists need to show respect - everywhere they go.

Mexicans work harder than the average westerner who work in similar professions, because Mexico lacks a social-safety net.  A lot of Mexicans work multiple jobs to offer the bare-basics to their families.  It's also true that many Americans and Canadians are mono-lingual - but most Mexicans who work in minimum wage jobs in tourist resorts speak at least 3 languages.  The only reason this guard was working night-shift?  As he told me - he didn't speak enough English to work during the day.

 

Word to the wise:  When you travel in Mexico - show respect and make an effort to communicate in any way you can.  Draw pictures, play "charades."  You will only benefit.  I'm am still amazed about the many things I learned about this person, and what I was able to tell him about me - even though we didn't speak the same language...

BATHROOMS IN MEXICO

BATHROOMS IN MEXICO

HUH?

 

 Having traveled in Mexico several times, I've come to realize that having no seat on a public toilet is better than having a seat to hover over.  For this reason, today when I have to use a public bathroom in Canada, I use some TP or my foot to lift the toilet seat - because it's simply easier and less messy to hover over a toilet that has no seat!  Trust me:  TRY IT.  Your shaking legs and knees will thank you - and when you leave the stall, you won't feel bad that you've wiped your pee from the seat that the next guest might actually sit on if they need to.

 

The one trick you should NOT use in Mexico, is putting a bit of TP in the toilet to pee on.  To avoid back-splash, aim for the porcelain at the edge of the water.  This isn't as bad as you think - because toilets in Mexico have less water than in Canada.  You should NEVER flush your toilet paper in Mexico - their system cannot handle it, and the toilets will back-up if too many people do this.  (Certainly not a chance I'm willing to take!) 

 

Whenever you use a public bathroom in Mexico - you should check for TP before you actually go.  There are still many public bathrooms that don't have toilet paper "in" the stalls.  Here's a picture of the bathroom at Tulum - which is a very popular pyramid site.  One would think they would have figured out that tourists are used to finding toilet paper IN the stall (especially considering so many suffer from Aztec Two-Step in Mexico, and can hardly guess just how much TP they might need in such an emergency!)  SO - if you're feeling a bit ill in the bowels - you might be wise to hit a store and buy a roll of your own personal TP for your bag...Carrying an extra Ziplock is wise....so your TP stays clean...

So - here's the public bathroom at Tulum.  Notice that thing on the back wall that looks like a paper-towel dispenser?  It's not.  It's the toilet paper dispenser.  None of these stalls have toilet paper inside.

 I've been fortunate to never get sick in Mexico - and I'm also lucky that we only used this bathroom to change into our swimsuits - so didn't find ourselves wondering what to do upon learning that there was no TP in our stall!! 

But - just one more reason why you might prefer to either bring a roll from home, or buy some when you get there - is that the TP isn't exactly soft in Mexico.  It's not here either, in public bathrooms - but, if you happen to be sick - the last thing you want is scratchy TP!

 

 

KINBE HOTEL

KINBE HOTEL

IN THE PARTY ZONE

The Kinbe hotel is funky hotel in the middle of the heat, - meaning it can be quite noisy at night, but is close to everything you need.  I'd stay here again for a couple of nights - but not if I was looking for rest and relaxation.  (In that case, don't even go to Playa del Carmen.) 

We were required to hand in our keys when we went out, and some people do not like this - but considering most people drink all day (in the heat), we concluded there was likely a good reason why they wanted our keys.  Some people think leaving your key behind means staff will steal your belongings, but we never had a problem - besides, the house cleaners all have keys, and I'm sure the hotel has extra copies too.

The rooms are fairly small, but we don't hang around in our room anyway.  The lobby had a nice place to relax in the evening with a drink, and the only thing I think the Kinbe misses is that the beautiful pathway on the right side of the hotel lacks outdoor seating, so guests cannot enjoy the view.  It's fairly narrow, so there isn't an awful lot of room for seating - something perhaps the architects overlooked when the last renovation was done.

I'd recommend requesting a room on the bottom level.  It's cooler, and the narrow staircase to the upper level doesn't look like it would be much fun to climb with luggage.

We almost used the pool, but ended up going down to the beach.  It looked very clean, but was quite cold.  The rooms on this side have a much larger outdoor space, but it isn't nearly as pretty as the other side...

I loved this shower!!  Look at the showerhead :)  By far, this is the nicest bathroom I've ever had in Mexico.  It was especially nice that the shower curtain closed off the shower so the toilet seat etc doesn't get wet.  The bathroom was very funky and artistic, with tile-work around the mirrors.  

If I return to Playa Del Carmen, I would certainly return to the Kinbe hotel.  The staff were very friendly and personable, but what I loved the most was their central location.  Walk up the street and the best shops and restaurants are at your finger tips.  It's also very close to the beach, as it's on the beach-side of Aviendo Five.  Just remember, the rooms are quite small - but if you're not one for sitting in your room, or finding everything you need in your hotel (but prefer to explore your surroundings) then the Kinbe is a good choice.

ANCIENT CITY OF TULUM

ANCIENT CITY OF TULUM

CITY OF DAWN

Though the architecture of Tulum is not overly spectacular, it's a beautiful place to visit because it is the only city with an ocean view.  This walled city is quite small, so it doesn't take long to visit.  There are three stone walls, the fourth of which is the coast.  The neatest part about coming to Tulum is you get to enter the city through one of the original gates, and leave by a different exit.

more coming soon....

PLAYA DEL CARMEN

PLAYA DEL CARMEN

PLAYAMERICARMEN

Glitz, music, dancing and a warm ocean breeze...it's all an illusion.  This is fun town - the place where being close to the centro means you'll get no sleep, and if you're on the outskirts, you're far away from the delicious plates of food served up in some of Playa's better restaurants.  I have a love/hate relationship with Playa Del Carmen, and I hope in future that changes - but I'm unsure that it will.

In 1996, Playa had Senor Frogs, but most of the corporations were an hour north in the sky-scraped city called Cancun.  We weren't in Mexico for the Hard Rock Cafe, or Senor Frogs, though we did visit the latter - and the food was okay, drinks weak, and seats uncomfortable.  Okay - maybe I just have something against corporations and franchises.

Then again, maybe not.  100% Natural is a franchise, but the food here was fabulous.  The service was also friendly and efficient, and the fruit fountain was pretty beautiful.  We stopped here for breakfast a few times, because they had amazing bread, fruit salad, yogurt, granola and all the huevos ranchero's style meals one could want in the morning.  We found the prices very decent, and the one time we stopped for a nightcap, our drinks were the size of fish bowls.

There are some beautiful shops in Playa Del Carmen, but buyer beware - you'll pay high prices here.  If you are heading inland, and know you're coming back - check the shops before you leave, so you can shop around.  We found prices were extremely high in Playa, and very reasonable in Merida.

This sign is confusing!  But they actually mean if you drink one, you've paid for two...for the most part, it seemed happy hour covers most of the day in Playa.  In 2007, the currency exchange meant that two drinks cost $5.55 CAD, and 2 beers cost $4.44 CAD...pretty darn cheap if you ask me!!  The only thing about this, is that if two people order a drink each, they will be charged full price each - so to take advantage of this deal, you need to be prepared to drink 2 each....that's not hard!!

Playa is beautiful, busy, fun, exciting and expensive - but the part I object to most is the fact that Starbucks has now taken over the small local coffee shops that used to be busy on Aviendo Five.  In 2007, Burger King was also located on Aviendo Five, and it's unfortunate to see the mum and pop operations that were there in 1996, disappear.  Even between 2006 and 2007, much had changed on the main strip.  It's demoralizing to think tourists travel to Mexico for the comforts of home - and think nothing of avoiding small businesses if they can order that name-brand taste of that Starbucks Frappaccino they are accustomed to.  I say "try something new!"  Mexico happens to have some excellent coffee - and the best pizza I ever tasted was at the Cafeteria El Meson at Parque Hidalgo in Merida.  Unless tourists begin voting with conscious feet, there will be little reason to even visit the Mayan Riviera.

ANCIENT CITY OF COBA

ANCIENT CITY OF COBA

WATERS STIRRED BY THE WIND

Coba is located on the shores of a series of lakes, and covers about 50 km square.  It was occupied from the Late Pre-Classic period (100-250 AD) and reached its peak during the 7th - 11th centuries.  At her peak, Coba was home to around 50 thousand people. 

Coba dominated trade routes between the Caribbean Coast, and the cities of northern Yucatan, including Chichen Itza.  Nohuch Mul is the tallest pyramid in the Yucatan, but is one of the least interesting with regards to architecture.  The main draw for most visitors is that Coba is located in the jungle, and is one of the last sites in the land of the Maya where you can still climb a pyramid.  The above photograph was taken from the top of Nohuch Mul (which means "Big Mound.")

Australian archaeologist Teobert Maler was the first to explore Coba, arriving there alone in 1891.  John Lloyd Stephens was told about Coba when he first explored the Yucatan, but as it was so deep in the jungle, he figured it would be extremely difficult to visit - and he was probably right.  Even in 1996, Coba was void of tourists during peak season, as the road to get there was still less traveled by tourists.  Today, there's tours that arrive daily, though the majority of people still head straight for Nohuch Mul, then leave without exploring the rest of the loop that leads out to the Stelae Groups.

This temple is at the top of Nuhuch Mul, and is quite small inside - though it does have the vaulted (or false) arch ceiling.  It's a strange feeling, standing inside of such an old room, not knowing exactly what the walls would say, if they could speak.

There is a handy rope - I think it's most useful when descending, rather than ascending - but it should be mentioned that the stones get very slippery with dust, and sturdy shoes are a must.  I was very nervous on my last climb, because I'm aware that people have died falling from these structures - so whatever you do, don't look down, lose your balance, or go too fast in the heat.  Some people got dizzy, and stood scared at the top, which is not exactly the time you want to realize that you're afraid of heights.

This is a chultun.  I'm not sure where Mel Gibson got the notion  that a woman and child could climb into one of these and live, but maybe I'm unaware that there's a massive chultune somewhere in Mayab!

This pyramid is interesting, as it has the rounded walls that are similar to the Magicians temple at Uxmal.  There are very few structures that have rounded walls - and I only wish I knew more about whether or not these sites are linked.

In 1926, the Carnegie Institue funded the first two expeditions led by J Eric S Thompson and Harry Pollock.  After their expedition was complete in 1930, nothing happened at Coba until in 1973, the Mexican Government began to finance excavations.

Similar to the hoop at Uxmal, the hole in this hoop is much larger than the ones in the Great Court of Chichen Itza.  This court is also very small and is not enclosed, like the Great Court.  The slanted walls in this court would have made the game easier to play, as one could bounce the ball off the wall and through the hoop.  At Chichen Itza, the hoop is so high, and the walls so straight - it would have been difficult get the ball through the tiny hole. 

When we left the pyramids, we ended up out in the Stelea group for about an hour, and didn't see a soul.  It was amazing, considering the rest of the site was packed - but it seems most people come to conquer Coba, not explore it, or learn about it.  It is very hot and sticky in the jungle, but it's possible to pay for bike-taxi's at the trail entrance, instead of walking around in the heat like we did.

There are several Stelae's out in this part of Coba - and it's amazing to contemplate the fact that archaeologists believe there are about 6500 structures here, most of which have never been excavated.

I have no idea why this tunnel is here.  It goes from one end to the other, but doesn't lead anywhere.  It's so pretty here, and it was really nice being able to explore without the crowds.

When one considers how overgrown most of Coba is to this day, it's easy to understand why Stephens didn't come here in the 1800's.  He was told about the ruins at Chemax, but never actually met anyone who'd been to the ruins. 

Is it a monkey??  It doesn't really look like a skull, considering the eyes - and that little nose and big mouth make me think it must be a monkey...but who knows.  I've found it difficult to find accurate information on Coba.

This is at the entrance of Coba.  We never went for a bike-ride, but by the end of our visit, we were dying for someone to pick us up!  Unfortunately for us, because we were out in the Stelae group, nobody came looking for tourists.  As we were leaving, we met two Canadians from Edmonton, who had rented bikes - but other than them, we were alone. 

It is best if you bring your own picinic, because the food that was being served here in 2007 was far from edible.  There was a greasy spoon serving hotdogs and fries, but nothing light or healthy, or Mexican.

WARNING ABOUT CHIGGERS

WARNING ABOUT CHIGGERS

THE INVISIBLE SAND FLY

There is a horrid little sand-fly that lives in Yucatan, and I'm still unsure as to what provokes an attack.  When I visited Yucatan in 1996, I was attacked in Playa del Carmen.  For days, I had these little pin-prick bites all over my legs, and didn't think much of them.  They didn't itch, but it was February, and the heat hadn't hit yet. 

Once we got to Uxmal, a few days later, all of those little pin-pricks swelled up into massive welts, some measuring 3 inches long, by 2 inches wide.  They all connected, and my legs were so itchy, I wanted to peel my skin off!

See the welts?  My right knee is a continent of sand-fly welts, as is the side of my left foot.  My legs were covered.  I suffered these sand-fly bites in 1996 and again in 2007, but somehow missed them in 2006.  We went to all the same places, so I'm unsure as to why I missed out on this wonderful novelty in 2006...

In 1996, I bought medicine for mosquito bites, but it didn't work.  Paula at Posada Toledo gave me vapo rub, but that wasn't much better.  When we got out to Dzibilchaltun, a tour guide named Jose told me to use sliced limes coated in salt.  Now that did the trick!!

Best way to keep these jerks from making your life miserable is to wear socks, shoes and pants - regardless of the heat.  I know the next time I visit Yucatan, I'll be keeping myself covered.  It's worth the heat, to avoid these miserable welts...by far, it caused me more discomfort than having 8 stitches across my knee (even though my stitches ripped.)

Hope you manage to steer clear their nasty stingers...