ANCIENT CITY OF COBA

ANCIENT CITY OF COBA

WATERS STIRRED BY THE WIND

Coba is located on the shores of a series of lakes, and covers about 50 km square.  It was occupied from the Late Pre-Classic period (100-250 AD) and reached its peak during the 7th - 11th centuries.  At her peak, Coba was home to around 50 thousand people. 

Coba dominated trade routes between the Caribbean Coast, and the cities of northern Yucatan, including Chichen Itza.  Nohuch Mul is the tallest pyramid in the Yucatan, but is one of the least interesting with regards to architecture.  The main draw for most visitors is that Coba is located in the jungle, and is one of the last sites in the land of the Maya where you can still climb a pyramid.  The above photograph was taken from the top of Nohuch Mul (which means "Big Mound.")

Australian archaeologist Teobert Maler was the first to explore Coba, arriving there alone in 1891.  John Lloyd Stephens was told about Coba when he first explored the Yucatan, but as it was so deep in the jungle, he figured it would be extremely difficult to visit - and he was probably right.  Even in 1996, Coba was void of tourists during peak season, as the road to get there was still less traveled by tourists.  Today, there's tours that arrive daily, though the majority of people still head straight for Nohuch Mul, then leave without exploring the rest of the loop that leads out to the Stelae Groups.

This temple is at the top of Nuhuch Mul, and is quite small inside - though it does have the vaulted (or false) arch ceiling.  It's a strange feeling, standing inside of such an old room, not knowing exactly what the walls would say, if they could speak.

There is a handy rope - I think it's most useful when descending, rather than ascending - but it should be mentioned that the stones get very slippery with dust, and sturdy shoes are a must.  I was very nervous on my last climb, because I'm aware that people have died falling from these structures - so whatever you do, don't look down, lose your balance, or go too fast in the heat.  Some people got dizzy, and stood scared at the top, which is not exactly the time you want to realize that you're afraid of heights.

This is a chultun.  I'm not sure where Mel Gibson got the notion  that a woman and child could climb into one of these and live, but maybe I'm unaware that there's a massive chultune somewhere in Mayab!

This pyramid is interesting, as it has the rounded walls that are similar to the Magicians temple at Uxmal.  There are very few structures that have rounded walls - and I only wish I knew more about whether or not these sites are linked.

In 1926, the Carnegie Institue funded the first two expeditions led by J Eric S Thompson and Harry Pollock.  After their expedition was complete in 1930, nothing happened at Coba until in 1973, the Mexican Government began to finance excavations.

Similar to the hoop at Uxmal, the hole in this hoop is much larger than the ones in the Great Court of Chichen Itza.  This court is also very small and is not enclosed, like the Great Court.  The slanted walls in this court would have made the game easier to play, as one could bounce the ball off the wall and through the hoop.  At Chichen Itza, the hoop is so high, and the walls so straight - it would have been difficult get the ball through the tiny hole. 

When we left the pyramids, we ended up out in the Stelea group for about an hour, and didn't see a soul.  It was amazing, considering the rest of the site was packed - but it seems most people come to conquer Coba, not explore it, or learn about it.  It is very hot and sticky in the jungle, but it's possible to pay for bike-taxi's at the trail entrance, instead of walking around in the heat like we did.

There are several Stelae's out in this part of Coba - and it's amazing to contemplate the fact that archaeologists believe there are about 6500 structures here, most of which have never been excavated.

I have no idea why this tunnel is here.  It goes from one end to the other, but doesn't lead anywhere.  It's so pretty here, and it was really nice being able to explore without the crowds.

When one considers how overgrown most of Coba is to this day, it's easy to understand why Stephens didn't come here in the 1800's.  He was told about the ruins at Chemax, but never actually met anyone who'd been to the ruins. 

Is it a monkey??  It doesn't really look like a skull, considering the eyes - and that little nose and big mouth make me think it must be a monkey...but who knows.  I've found it difficult to find accurate information on Coba.

This is at the entrance of Coba.  We never went for a bike-ride, but by the end of our visit, we were dying for someone to pick us up!  Unfortunately for us, because we were out in the Stelae group, nobody came looking for tourists.  As we were leaving, we met two Canadians from Edmonton, who had rented bikes - but other than them, we were alone. 

It is best if you bring your own picinic, because the food that was being served here in 2007 was far from edible.  There was a greasy spoon serving hotdogs and fries, but nothing light or healthy, or Mexican.