ANCIENT CITY OF CHICHEN-ITZA

ANCIENT CITY OF CHICHEN-ITZA

THE MOUTH OF THE WELL OF THE ITZAES

This Late Classic site is thought to have been settled between 550-900 AD, and then again in 1100AD.  It is after the resettlement of 1100AD that archaeologists believe Quetzalcoatl and his followers were exiled from the northern capital of Tula, and invaded Mayan inhabited Chichen Itza.

 

 

The Temple of Quetzalcoatl (El Castillo) stands nearly 25 meters tall, and was originally constructed before 800AD.  After the Toltec invasion, Toltec "plumbed serpent" motifs were carved onto the stairways and Toltec warriors were added to the frescoes at the top doors.

   

 

 

 Each side of the pyramid has 9 levels, divided by centric staircases which creates 18 on each side.  This represents the 18-20 day months of the Vague year.  The four staircases have 91 stairs, which totals 364.  By adding the top level, there is a step for each day of the year.  Each facade boasts 52 panels, which represent the Calendar-Round.  (The Mayans commemorated 52 years much like we pay attention to 100.)

 

The north side staircase has a serpent head at the base, and on the Spring and Fall equinox the entire pyramid falls into shadow with the exception of the edge of this particular staircase.  This is said to be Kukulkan descending and ascending the earth.  Inside the pyramid is an inner north-side staircase that leads up to a chamber inside the temple.  When we were there in 1996, this jaguar was there with a chac-muul altar. 

 

This was taken inside the top temple of the pyramid in 1996.  In 2006 after a woman fell to her death, the pyramid was closed for climbing.  The staircase leading to the inner chamber is also closed.  Many visitors are put-off by this, however it makes sense to think that thousands of people climbing these temples every year would cause substantial structural damage.  If you're keen on climbing a pyramid, head for Coba.  The architecture is nowhere near as interesting as Chichen Itza, but as it is set in the jungle, it's still exciting to visit.

 

El Caracol is the star observatory.  The Spanish named it the Conch Snail due to a spiral staircase inside.  Archaeologists believe the foundation of the structure was built by the Maya, but that the observatory itself is of Toltec construction.

There are few round structures found in the Mayan world.  Mayapan has a similar structure which may have been a copy of this observatory, but since the sacking of Mayapan, less reconstructive work has been done there than at Chichen Itza.  There was a round structure discovered at Uxmal, but archaeologists are still unclear as to what it was for.  I also know El Ceibal in Guatemala (near Sayaxche) has a round structure.  Most cities have something unique about them, but Chichen Itza has many features that make it a fascinating site to explore.

 

This structure is called the Nunnery, and thought to be where Mayan priests and priestesses lived, as it's a large "convent-like" structure with many rooms. 

 

La Iglesia, or "The Church" was named by the Spanish, likely because it is situated next to the Nunnery.  The rectangular construction of this building is Puuc, but the stone mosaic veneer and roof comb is of Chenes making.  The Chenes are famed for their intricate stone-work, as the pieces were all pieced together into incredible motifs of animals and gods, and stay together without the use of mortar.  These buildings are why I always recommend visitors make the effort to come to Chichen Itza, if they aren't going to make it inland to see Uxmal.  I think both sites are important to see, if in the Yucatan - but fewer people ever make it to Uxmal because of it's location in the Puuc Hills.

 

Unlike La Iglesia, the Nunnery Annexe has Chenes veneer on the lower portion of the building, as well as at the upper portion.  What amazed us was that though Chichen Itza was crawling with tourists and vendors, we only saw one couple when we were out in this area, and we were out here for at least half an hour.  They were from Chile, so we took turns exchanging cameras for photographs.  Chichen Itza is a large site, and the horrendous afternoon sun is exhausting.  We purchased 2 litres of water each, which were partially frozen - and within about ten minutes, the ice and melted and my water was getting warm.  Despite drinking fluids all morning, and then 2 litres while we were here, neither of us required the restrooms.  That's gotta tell you something about the heat, and the importance of staying hydrated. 

The Great Ball Court

 

If you compare the size of this court to the ones at Uxmal and Coba, you'll be amazed by how different they are.  There are also two smaller courts at Chichen (located next to the Temple of a Thousand Warriors, where there is also a sweat bath.)  Archaeologists theorize that the smaller courts were built for fewer players, but that this court was built for larger teams.  They also suspect that human sacrifice may not have been practiced in smaller ball games, but are certain the losing team from this court was beheaded, due to the frescos on the walls here.  Unlike Uxmal and Coba's courts, which have low slanted walls and lower hoops with larger holes - archaeologists believe that playing the ball game in this court would have been much more difficult.  The building at the end of the court is called the Temple of the Bearded Man, which has a battle-scene carved into the inside walls.

  

I cannot imagine what it must have been like to live in a city where the center of town had a platform for displaying the dead.  This is the Tzompantli, built by the Toltecs, for this purpose.

 

In 1904, Edward Thompson had "Cenote Sagrado" or "Sacred Cenote" dredged.  Eventually, he and another man rigged up outfits to dive into the murkey waters of the cenote, and this was when they discovered gold, jade, obsidian knives - and human skeletons.  In the 1960's, National Geographic and CEDAM further explored the cenote.  It is believed that the human remains belonged to those who were selected as sacrifical victims for rain.

Chichen Itza gets mixed reviews, and many on Trip Advisor say it isn't worth visiting due to the crowds and invasive sales people.  Some enthusiasts are put out by the fact they can no longer climb El Castillo - as if there's some conspiracy by UNESCO to destroy their sense of adventure.  On the other hand, if one were to consider the thousands of visitors climbing on these temples, year by year, it could be argued that by keeping tourists off of these structures, they will last longer.  (Not only that, but I'm sure the tragic death of a visitor had a lot of influence in ending the climbing of El Castillo to the public.)

If you want to visit Chichen Itza, my best advice is to rent a car and drive to Piste the day before your visit.  There is an overpriced hotel right outside of the site, or the Dolores Alba on the old highway coming in from Valladolid.  This gives you the opportunity to see the lazor light show in the evening.  (Save your ticket, as you can use it the next day to get into the park.)  

Wake up early and arrive at the gates for opening.  Not only will you be there hours before the tour buses arrive with hoards of tourists, you'll also have the luxury of exploring Chichen Itza in the cool of the morning, as opposed to the high afternoon sun.  Visit El Castillo, Great Ball Court, Cenote Sagrado, Temple of a Thousand Warriors, sweat baths and El Caracol first - as these tend to be the busiest when the tours arrive.  Save the older parts of Chichen (Nunnery) for later, as fewer tourists head out that way anyway.

 

The other blessing in arriving early is that you will be spared the invasive vendors who will literally harass visitors when it gets busy.  See the little girl?  In the space of 15 minutes, she had tapped me on the arm at least 9 times, trying to sell me the same item.  She was so small and beautiful, but I knew that if I opened my purse, I would be surrounded by all the other children in the vicinity, (and there were lots of them) who were also selling goods.  Some tourists snapped, and started yelling at the kids to get away, and I had to take a lot of deep breaths to stop myself from losing it.  It's awful to scream at a child who doesn't understand what harassment is.  They are sent out there by their parents to make as many sales as they can, but even the most patient of human beings can only stand having their skirt tugged on so many times in a short space of time (by the same child) before they're on the verge of snapping.  The managers of Chichen Itza really need to address this issue, as it is unfair for paying visitors, and if visitors feel harassed, they aren't going to support the vendors inside the park.  It's a lose/lose situation for everyone.

In 1996, the markets (like this one) were set up between El Castillo and El Caracol - two structures that every tourist wants to see.  As the vendors knew everyone would walk by them at some point in the middle of their explorations, there were no children running up to tourists with items to sell.  We bought a lot of stuff at the market in 1996, and it was in the perfect place, because having been out to the Cenote, and seen El Castillo, we were ready to hang out in the shade, drink some water and have a nice little break.  The market in 1996 was full of people.  As you can see, this market in 2006 is empty.

By 2006, the market was right at the entrance of Chichen Itza.  Everyone coming through the gates is eager to get to the site, and by the time they've spent hours exploring in the sun, they are either too exhausted to shop at the market (and want to get back into the gate area for cold drinks), or are frustrated by how many children repeatedly tugged on their skirts while they were trying to enjoy the temples.  We decided that we would go the market that is set up outside of the gates, because we felt that if we shopped at this market, we would send a message to these vendors that having children running around the site with goods is okay.  Again - I truly believe in supporting locals, and would never yell at a child - but this situation is not appropriate for a Unesco site, especially since it was added to the list of World Mystery's in 2007.  Uxmal, Dzibilchaltun, Tulum and Coba do not have vendors in the park - the least they could do here is relocate the market back to where it was in 1996, so everyone can be happy.

Piste is quite a neat little town.  In 2007, when Chichen Itza officialy became a world mystery, it was decided that the municiple government would receive a portion of entry sales for the Unesco site.

KINICHE RESTAURANT

KINICHE RESTAURANT

MAYAN CUISINE

 

Kiniche is a beautiful restaurant, with excellent customer service and delicious food.  We tried all sorts of interesting appetizers here, and I'd love to come back and try some of the Mayan dishes that are cooked in the ground.  

  

The panuchos were delicious. They are much like a tortilla, but about 6 inches in diameter, and have a pocket inside.  Bean paste is stuffed inside of the pocket before they are fried.  Before served, they're topped with lettuce, tomatoes, onions and avacados.  We also shared Papadzules, which were very rich but also tastey.  They were hard boiled eggs wrapped in small tortillas, then topped with a green paste made from pumpkin and squash seeds.

 

This woman must have been very hot!  Izamal was around 48 degrees already, so I cannot imagine having to work by fire all day.  All of the women working here look so beautiful in their white Yucatecan style dresses.

 

 

 This is the cooks hut, inside the restaurant.  At the front, there is also a small art gallery with clay figurines and cards for sale.

BED & BREAKFAST MACANCHE

BED & BREAKFAST MACANCHE

COLONIAL HOUSE

If staying at the Macanche B&B you might want a car, as it's a few blocks from town, and Izamal is hot with no breeze.  We really enjoyed our stay here, and the owners Emily and Alfred are friendly enough.  

 

 

This was our room - called Colonial House.  It was very clean and comfortable, however there was no water pressure in the shower.  All the suites have themes, and are connected by beautiful pathways and gardens.  It was dark at night, so a flashlight would have been handy.

 

Everywhere you look, there are beautiful plants and even the storage sheds are Na huts.  At the back of the property, there's a beautiful pool that has an uneven floor, and looks like a mini cenote.  It was being cleaned right before we arrived, and though there were other guests staying at the hotel, we were alone at the pool.

 

The relaxed environment was a nice change from the business of Merida, and Leanne had morning sickness the day we arrived - so a nice afternoon spent resting was perfect.

 

The restaurant is beautiful, and the breakfast was fabulous.  When the kitchen is closed, guests are allowed to help themselves to drinks in the fridge, but are expected to be honest and write it down on a room tab.  We paid $45 for two people, which included breakfast.

MAGICAL CITY OF IZAMAL

MAGICAL CITY OF IZAMAL

CITY OF HILLS 

  

 

In 1996, I visited Izamal and was won over by the small village with the large convent of Friar Diego De Landa.  Driving into Izamal, there were beautiful Na Huts with beautiful gardens, while the town itself was built of stucco and cement.

 

A young man rode his bike down the open dusty streets, with a large icecube strapped onto a dolly, behind. Another young man enticed us to eat at a restaurant he was selling. We met him at Kiniche temple, which at that time, was not fenced. Our meal that day, made all of us feel a bit sick,,,,heavy grease, in a backyard setting, with Henecken ropes spun around the beams that held the palapa roof up. 

 

In 2007, Leanne and I stayed in Izamal, and enjoyed it so much I would recommend it for anyone coming to the area. Visiting isn't the same as staying here.  It's little wonder that in 2002 Izamal was added to Mexico's official list of "Magical Cities." 

Izamal is an amazing village. The people are very proud of their town. In fact, the monastery here was restored and painted before the Papal visit of Juan Pablo II in 1993. The town of Izamal was so honoured to have him in Izamal, they painted their pride about the village, covering the buildings in yellow paint, just like the famous Convent. 

 

This Franciscan convent is famous, as it was founded by Friar Diego de Landa, who is remembered for burning the Mayan scripts.  After being sent back to Spain in exile, de Landa was ordered to write down everything he could about the Maya.  As he had studied them extensively, he was able to document a lot of information in an interesting book called "An Account of things in Yucatan."  It's ironic to think the man responsible for burning the Maya scripts is also the same man who provided the "Mayan Rosetta," as even Mayan scholars claim were it not for his book, we would know very little about the calendar today.  He was allowed to return to Yucatan later in his life.

 

The convent was built from and atop what may have been one of the largest pyramids in the area.  If you look at the walls of the convent, you can see maize patterns, as well the columns that hold up the arches look quite similar to the square columns one sees at Chichen Itza.

 Friar Diego De Landa

Since 1000 BC, Izamal has been a pilgramage site for Mayans who pay homage to Kinichkakmo.....Itzam Na was a deity of healing and resurrection, creator of arts, and Izamal was still inhabited during the conquest....therefore, there is the Church, which was built from, and atop, the great pyramid of Izamal. If you really investigate the convent, you will find evidence of the Mayan stones that were used to build the church....Maize patterns, and also, the square blocks that base the arches....

  

We didn't see any tourist shops in Izamal, which was a welcome change for us.  When I was in Playa del Carmen in 1996, the groceria looked much like this store - but one would be hard pressed to find anything like this in Playa now.  I find these stores and the local market interesting, while the grocery stores now in Playa and Tulum are boring.

 

 

Nothing gets wasted here.  Many people cringe when they see this photograph, yet they eat meat!  I think it's amazing to see a local meat market in Mexico, and wish we saw more of these in Canada.  It might change our wasteful habits if we were face to face with reality more often.  

  

I've been in a couple of meat markets, the worst of which was in Mexico City,  - so this market was a nice surprise.  It's a giant fridge, so nothing smelled - and it was fairly new and very clean.  That said, a dog did wander on through...

 

This market was so clean compared to the Lucas de Galvez in Merida.  I don't remember whether or not it was here in 1996, but there was a tortilla factory down the street, so I assume this was not here then.  Everything was organized, and all the electrical meters were on one wall at the back of the market, as opposed to stuck onto the wall just anywhere. 

 

Leanne is a Registered Nurse, so she started collecting supplies from the hospital months before our trip.  The hospital where she works has a policy that if something has been in a patient's room, even if it is still sealed, it's deemed contaminated.  Instead of throwing the supplies away, they save them for employees going travelling to developing countries.  This worked out well for me too, as I fell two hours before boarding the plane, and got 8 stitches across my knee....The hospital was really pleased with all the supplies she brought for them, and she was happy to find a public clinic in a small town, as so many of the clinics 

were private.

   

One thing to warn, is since NAFTA, plastic has become an enemy of air quality in Mexico. Most locals burn their garbage, and it seemed by 7PM, every family was out on the street, burning their plastics and compostables. The stench was awful, to the point that I looked it up online, upon returning home. Izamal was the village that taught me about the ill-ramnifications of NAFTA, for Mexico: A country that does not boast huge recycling plants, therefore, the locals burn it with all else. 

 

In 1996, most of the houses were Na huts, but by 2007, cement and stucco homes lines the streets of Izamal.  This is on the road leading away from the magical little town, and even still - everything is painted yellow!

ANCIENT CITY OF UXMAL

ANCIENT CITY OF UXMAL

THRICE BUILT

Enter the beautiful garden of Uxmal with the intentions of staying for the better part of the day.  This site is not small like Tulum, and has some of the most stunning views imaginable.  You can still climb the Great Pyramid, and climging up the false wall to see the Governors Palace is just one more way to gain an elevated perspective.

 

This site is said by some, to be the largest urban center boasting examples of the best puuc style architecture. Situated in the Puuc Hills, and surrounded by other sites such as Sayil, Labna, Grutas Loltun, Kabah, and Xlapak, a journey through the Puuc Route makes for a few interesting days. (Mayapan is situated between Merida and Ticul, enroute to Uxmal).

 

 Archaeologists believe Uxmal was actually built five times, however a mysterious legend claims there was a dwarf king who built the Magicians temple in just one night, to conquer the king. His mother’s house is said to be the "House of the old woman."

 

 This site is pretty large, and due to the extreme heat by afternoon, is nearly impossible to see on one day. The major temples include the Magicians Temple, Nunnery Quadrangle, Great Pyramid, and the Governors Palace. Dove Cots, which you can see from the road outside of the site, is a picturesque place to rest. If you are very interested in these ancient cities, spend the time to explore the smaller groups, such as the Cemetery group, North group, and the house of the old woman.

 

When Stephens arrived here, he discovered some wooden panels which had traveled from El Peten Guatemala. All but one have since been destroyed, but one which resides in New York.

 

Archaeologists agree that terracing played a large part in Uxmal's gardens growing, due to the leeching of nutrients in the soil. The false platform on which the Governors Palace is built, is an amazing site to see. It amazes me that any civilization could survive in this climate, where chultunes are abundant for gathering rain water because there is no water source at Uxmal.

 

The Ball Court at Uxmal is much smaller than the Great Ball Court of Chichen Itza.  Archaeologists believe the small space means there would have been fewer players in the game, possibly as few as 2 players in total.  It is also believed by those who played in these smaller courts did not face death at the end of the game.  The low, slanted walls would make the game much easier to play, and the hoop is suspended much lower than the hoop at Chichen Itza's Great Ball Court.  I am unsure if the hoop here is authentic- but if it is, it's also interesting to note how large the hole is, as the hoops in Chichen's court has a much smaller hole.

 

 

 

Sun tan lotion and an abundant supply of water are essentials at Uxmal. Shoes that cover the feet, and a hat are strongly recommended. I got heat exhaustion my first visit here. Afternoons are extreme. I would also recommend bringing your own picnic lunch, as the restaurant on site was still serving terrible food on my last visit in 2007.

Vertigo anyone?  This was the most terrifying climb of my life.  I'm glad I can longer be tempted, since tourists are no longer allowed to climb to the top!!

MERIDA

MERIDA

PARIS OF THE WEST - (THE WHITE CITY) 

T'ho (Merida) was settled in 1842, by Fransicisco de Montejo (the younger), which his father was unable to do. As Merida grew into a succesful city, the wealthy began to fear inteference from outside forces, such as Mexico City. The hacienda owners armed their Mayan servants to protect them, and of course, it backfired. In 1847, the “war of the castes” broke out, and lasted until 1853 when the Mayans took control of the entire peninsula with exception of Merida and Campeche. They remained in control until 1901.

 

 

This modern Madonna and child statue is a copy of another by Lenoir, which stands in the Jardin du Luxembourg in Paris, France.  In behind is the Iglesia de Jesus, or Iglesia El Tercer Orden.  It is one of the few Jesuit structures still standing in Merida, and was built in 1618.

Driving into the city through the outskirts, you’ll notice men working horses with carts. As you get closer to the centro, the traffic gets thick and crazy with double-wide bikes, motorcycles, buses, trucks that stop in your lane with no notice to unload, horse carraiges for rides, and toxic diesel fumes. As the streets are narrow, and the buildings tall, beeping horns are amplified. Two lanes are best described as three weaving in and out, and never straight.

Revolutionary Passage, Merida


If staying in close proximatey to the city zocolo and centro area, you will enjoy the evenings for festivities in the parks, music, dancing in the streets, sitting on narrow balconies of coffee shops, or down in the alley where Peon Contreras has good location for drinks and guacamole.

 
Daytime can be spent exploring historical churches, galleries, museums and of course, artesan shops, juice-stands, bakerias and grocerias. Day trips outside of the city include Dzibilchaltun, Uxmal, Mayapan and the Puuc Route, to see Mayan ruins, Celestun to see Flamingos, and Progresso to swim in the Gulf, and visit a town catering to Mexican tourists. There is a Convent route, Hacienda route, and Yaxcopil, to visit a henecken plantation museum.

 

We saw these beautiful children getting ready waiting for a bus, so asked if it would be okay if we took their picture.  They must think us Gringo's are a strange lot, but they were too gorgeous to pass up!

 

Of course, if we were going to take a picture of the girls, we had to get the boys too...we were just about to walk away when they all started jeering!

 

There are many churches in Merida.  This cathedral was dedicated to San Idelfonso, and replaced a thatched building in 1551.  In 1585, architect Juan de Aguero designed the facade of the building, with the two towers and the Hapsburg coat of arms, and an arch over the front entrance.  The Hapsburg coat of arms was later replaced with a Mexican sheild.

 

I haven't been able to find out what the story is behind this building, but considering the architecture, I assume it was either a church or one of the Jesuit schools.  I guess now Coca Cola owns it...

The Governors Palace was built in 1892 and now houses the State of Yucatan's executive government offices.  The armed guards are on duty night and day, but don't normally look this serious!  

 

The Palace itself is beautifully constructed, with a central courtyard, and typical Spanish arches.  The murals on display here are not typical murals, as they are portable, as opposed to being painted directly onto the walls.   

"Hecho de Maiz" or "Made of Corn"

"Venta de Indios" or "Sale of Indians."

Fernando Castro Pacheco was born on January 26, 1918 in Merida, and is a painter, illustrater, engraver, print maker and teacher.  He has illustrated children's books and delved into sculpture, but is known for painting murals of Mexican life and history.

 

I don't have the title of this painting, but believe it was "Famine."  If anything, the subjects are certainly suffering due to starvation.

"Guerra de Castas" or "War of the Castes"

The War of the Castes was the result of greedy Meridan landowners, and intelligent Mayan warriors.  Merida had become a very wealthy city, and as Mexico had gained independance from Spain, the landowners began to worry about the central Mexican government wanting their share of the prosperity.  The Hacienda owners armed their Mayan soldiers, who were victims of oppression by the very people who need their protection.  The plan backfired, as the Mayans rebelled, and in 1847 the War of the Castes errupted.  Merida and Campeche were successful in barricading themselves against the rebel forces, but the rest of Yucatan Peninsula fell under Mayan rule once again.  It is said that anyone of fair skin who ventured out of these cities rarely returned.  Eventually, the landowners agreed to take orders from Mexico City in return for protection from the State, and in 1901 the War of Castes finally ended.  Many Mayans retreated into the jungle, where the majority of them continue living in Na huts and speaking Yucatec Maya instead of Spanish.  In tourist areas, this is starting to change, but there are still many Yucatec Maya who do not speak Spanish or English.

 

"Execution of Jacinto Canek"

On November 19, 1761 there was a Mayan uprising in Cisteil, and Jacinto Canek, as leader of the rebellion, was caught and condemned to death, along with several of his followers.  The execution took place on September 14, 1761 at 8AM, in front of Montejo's home.  The Governor was present, as witness to Caneks brutal execution, which was being quartered with hot pokers.  His remains were then burned.

"Triumph of the Republic"

Benito Juarez (top left) was a Zapotec Indian lawyer from Oaxaca.  After many struggles with the Church, Juarez was elected president in 1861, but almost immediately forced to flee due to the take over by the Napoleon III and the Emperor Maximillian.  On May 15, 1867 Queretaro fell to the Liberal Army, and Maximillian was found guilty of 13 charges, including the Black Flag decree.  Despite pleas to spare Maximillians life, which came from Europe, USA, the Vatican and Italy, Juarez insisted that Maximilian would be executed.  This took place on June 19, 1867 on the Hill of Bells in Queretero.  He was 35 years old.  Juarez resumed the presidency until his death on July 18, 1872.

 

I don't remember the name of this mural, but it always makes me think of Friar Diego De Landa, with his grim expression and stern, pointed finger. 

Admission is free, and as the Governers Palace is located in the center of Merida, it's a perfect place to escape the heat for half an hour.  There are 31 murals in total, the first 26 of which were painted in 1973, with the latter 5 being completed in 1975.  

I wonder if my nation of Canada will ever commission an artist to create public illustrations of the atrocities that were done to our Indigenous peoples.  Though a Residential School museum was opened in Manitoba last year, Canadians tend to shy away from facing our dark past.  

 

I do not speak Spanish, and the translation I got from the internet made no sense.  If anyone can translate this for me, I'd appreciate a comment!!  This photograph was taken at a political concert in Merida.  Leanne and I found this to be a most interesting event, as there were pop stars at the Zocalo, and everyone was out from babies to the elderly.  There were lots of political posters, people chanting, but for the most part, everyone was in good cheer. 

 

Standing in the midst of the crowd, an older American fellow caught our eye, and just started laughing.  He said "Can you imagine if America had these kinds of parties to remind youth that it's important to vote?  I've never seen anything like this!"  It's not much different in Canada.  We would not have walked into this crowd of people had it not been a music concert with pop stars and kids.  Despite many posters and chants, the crowd was peaceful, and having fun.  Tourists are always warned to stay away from political events, but this was more like a party than a protest.

 

Still, once the policia began to infiltrate the crowd, we escaped to a balcony-coffee shop that overlooked the square, and watched from there.  Nothing happened, and at the end of the night, everyone was walking down the roads arm in arm, singing away.

 

In May 2007, Ivonne Aracelly Ortega Pacheco (born November 27, 1972) was elected as Governor of Yucatan.  She is affiliated with the PRI, and is Yucatan's first elected female Governor, though second to serve after Dulce Maria Sauri Riancho, who served as interim governor from 1991 - 1994.  Pacheco is the fifth woman to serve as governor of a Mexican state, and was inaugurated on August 1, 2007.  She will serve as Governor until 2012.  (I have no idea whether or not she is related to the artist Fernando Castro Pacheco, who painted the murals for the Governors Palace.)